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Thread: Wood Table Damaged by a Hot Cooking Vessel

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Wow! There's a lot of wood in that table, I imagine its quite substantial and heavy. It looks solid!

    Now for the the bad part <well, maybe not bad>.... that's an unfinished table, so that's why you are getting the tiny splints of wood when you wipe down the surface. As you continue to use the table, its going to soak up every small stain and dropping on the top surface, and any mopping near the base will get a water soak as well. This is OK if you want an "Old School' tavern look,but be prepared for a hundred glass rings on the top and butter-grease marks, etc.

    Solutions? Not many and keep the table as it is.

    1) You could put a glass top on it, edge to edge.

    2) Though it will change the look, feel and may darken it some, I would consider applying a coat of paste varnish on the entire piece. Use a can of clear (paste only) varnish and get a dry rag. Apply ONLY with the dry rag and very sparingly. Do not 'coat' the piece with the paste varish, rather dry-rub it onto the table in the direction of the grain. You want to apply it DRY-DRY-DRY. Just barely enough to cover. This will lock down the loose fibers on the top and also give you some stain resistance. However, before you do this be sure you do not want to return it, and start out on the underside of the table to see what it does to the color and if you like the look when it dries.

    All based on the photos you sent, but that's my read on it.
    Duane Collie
    Straight answers from thirty-six years in the business.
    My Private Messages are Disabled - Please ask questions here in the forum.

  2. #12
    violet*tendencies Guest

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    It is a massive table. I hope we don't have to take it apart to get it into its destination room (pending remodeling).

    Thank you for your thoughtful suggestions!

    I think I'm going to try coating the table top with a clear paste wax. I will first test it on the underside. The table has a lovely gray patina and I don't want to change that at all. Your directions for application are greatly appreciated! Do you have a particular brand in mind for the wax? It was suggested by another person that I stay clear of Briwax or was it Minwax?

  3. #13
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    Paste wax will work somewhat, but can't stand up to water rings and oily spills, but it will gloss the table somewhat and give you maybe 20% protection vs no protection.

    Stay away from BRIWAX, that will almost ruin your table even if the Toluene fumes don't overcome you. That's a resroration wax suitable for old finishes when used with steel wool. Nasty stuff, not my favorite.

    For Paste Varish, I use Bartley's or whatever I can find. Its important to get the gel kind, as it rubs in dry.
    Duane Collie
    Straight answers from thirty-six years in the business.
    My Private Messages are Disabled - Please ask questions here in the forum.

  4. #14
    violet*tendencies Guest

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    Oops. I didn't realize there was a distinction between paste varnish and paste wax. I guess I'll experiment with both and see how they change the look of the wood.

    Again, thanks so much for the advice

  5. #15
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    Very much so! Paste wax is similar to what you put on your car. Its not permanent and can be easily removed with mineral spirits.

    Paste Varnish is a hardened, permanent finish that is polyurethane based, and its not easy to remove once applied. It require a commitment to do the whole piece, but its what I would do, personally. If you can apply it DRY-DRY-DRY, then you won't see too much change in the look and get a lot of stain/moisture protection on it. Plus it would stop those little slivers from coming up, which is going to be an ongoing problem otherwise. The problem I have in telling forks to do this is they ALWAYS put it on too heavy, and then it looks terrible. I use an old t-shirt when I do it, and dip it in the paste varnish, then literally 'rub' it into the finish so that when I'm done you can't even see it. You don't want to apply it as a coating, you want to scrub it into the wood, that's what I mean by DRY-DRY-DRY.

    I learned that trick over 20 years ago from a master cabinentmaker, and I've passed it onto many shops since then who use it. You would never suspect there is any polyurethane on the pieces when its done properly.
    Duane Collie
    Straight answers from thirty-six years in the business.
    My Private Messages are Disabled - Please ask questions here in the forum.

  6. #16
    LDaniels Guest

    Default Re: Update!

    I couldn't help but notice this discussion regarding quality made furniture and the pricing of furniture. I have been looking for a nice table for my living room as well and have found a couple places and/or websites with nice stuff. I have found that Amish-made furniture is usually the best route to go down, seeing as how the piece(s) you may choose would be American made, not made in China, as this was one of your concerns. Amish Furniture Factory is a great place to look. Hopefully this helps anyone in the market for nice, quality made furniture for their home, office, etc. I have been very happy with what I found there!

  7. #17
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Oh no. $3200+ kitchen table from Restoration Hardware is Made in China.

    How about a little Truth in Advertising, LDaniels? Are you or have you ever been an employee or otherwise involved with the company you link to in your statement? I find your post fairly typical of someone who is trying to promote a business they own or work for with embedded links, etc.
    Duane Collie
    Straight answers from thirty-six years in the business.
    My Private Messages are Disabled - Please ask questions here in the forum.

  8. #18
    bellrom Guest

    Default Re: Oh no. $3200+ kitchen table from Restoration Hardware is Made in China.

    I'm looking at two manufacturers for a dining room set: Saloom and Gat Creek. Saloom uses maple but I have read negative posts on their warranty and I am not sure of the construction of Gat Creek. Duane, I need your thoughts on both manufacturers. I know you like JL Treharn but their tables are not my style. "Thanks
    Last edited by bellrom; 10-03-2010 at 07:30 PM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Oh no. $3200+ kitchen table from Restoration Hardware is Made in China.

    I've never heard of either company, sorry!
    Duane Collie
    Straight answers from thirty-six years in the business.
    My Private Messages are Disabled - Please ask questions here in the forum.

  10. #20
    bellrom Guest

    Default Re: Oh no. $3200+ kitchen table from Restoration Hardware is Made in China.

    Wow, I'm surprised. From what I've read it seems like Gat Creek (formally Tom Seely/Caperton furniture) is similar to JL Treharn but have been around longer and is located in W. VA. I was researching companies on the internet who make their furniture in the USA and came across both Gat Creek and Saloom. I even think there are references in your forum about Saloom. Since you have never heard of either company is it safe to say there are thousands of furniture makers who make furniture in the USA? I don't want to spin my wheels researching thousands of companies and it seems the only company you recommend for solid wood dining is JL Treharn. Can you make any other recommendations? Thanks.

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