Any tips on using moore & giles on capri?
Capri is a much lighter and more naked leather than a burnished hide or pull-up. I have used it once on Capri and i was happy with the results, but you apply much lighter and less aggressively. It will still have to be rubbed into the hide. Test first under the seat - always!
Duane Collie
Straight answers from thirty-six years in the business.
My Private Messages are Disabled - Please ask questions here in the forum.
Possibly a random question but someone out there might have the same one.
Do you use the cleaner and conditioner treatment protocol on the included burnished sample swatch under the seat cushion? Wondering if it will not hold it's original color and therefore not be able to use for re-burnishing in the future if desired.
Thanks!
I don't. That will always be the original color because it has no sunlight and wear exposure. It won't hurt if you want to do it though.
Duane Collie
Straight answers from thirty-six years in the business.
My Private Messages are Disabled - Please ask questions here in the forum.
Quick follow up on the wiping down of the leather (not the 6 month "rejuvenation" treatment"). I Have been using a damp room temperature microfiber cloth to wipe down the burnished authors chair and the Tilton Lager Sofa and their respective Ottomans every other week. I do apply this wipe down to the entire surface of each piece. Is this excessive?
I was thinking about the rule of thumb that water is bad for leather and while it is only a damp cloth...if there is no benefit to areas like the back of the authors chair or the sides of the sofa...areas that get very little if any physical contact anything that produces oil (hands, bare legs etc)...then I'm taking the risk of drying out or damaging the leather with he damp cloth for no reason.
I am probably over thinking it...but if I am taking the time to care for these pieces...I would like to do it as smart as possible!
Cheers!
I just wipe down the wear areas only with a damp cloth, it’s just to get the oils and dirt off. You’re good to go!
Duane Collie
Straight answers from thirty-six years in the business.
My Private Messages are Disabled - Please ask questions here in the forum.
Good Stuff Duane!
Thanks for the advice per usual. For anyone reading this in the future. I have a yellow microfiber cloth that I got in a pack of 30 or so from costco. Maybe 15-20 bucks total. I keep one cloth in a bag labeled for the purpose of wiping down the pieces in a broom closet literally 10 feet from the living room where the furniture sits. I have a reminder in my iPhone that triggers every two weeks to remind me to wipe the pieces down. When I get the reminder...I go to the closet and get the cloth, dampen it, wipe down each piece with one side of the single cloth. Then I leave the cloth to dry and put it away that night. All in...maybe 5 minutes of actual "work". Simple with a system and the reminder is pleasant to check off my list. I have the similar system for the every six month leather conditioning.
Cheers!
You will extend the life if your new furniture by decades just by doing that very simple wipe down regimen. I can’t begin to tell you the number of emails (with photos) that we get of stained and soiled leather upholstery that “didn’t hold up”. And that is avoidable by doing the wipe downs.
As Sarah says “it’s like flossing teeth, everyone tells their dentist they do it regularly, but almost no one does.”
Duane Collie
Straight answers from thirty-six years in the business.
My Private Messages are Disabled - Please ask questions here in the forum.
I definitely will take great care of it and despite what many may say but don't do, I also floss my teeth, ROFL! On the wipe down, do you need to make sure it's bone dry after wiping it down with a damp (not sopping wet) microfiber or is slightly wet okay and let it dry naturally? I know water and leather don't mix, but just want to make sure that I don't do anything to cause issues later.